About Laser Hair Removal, Permanent Laser Hair Reduction and Facial Hair Removal Information
 

Laser Hair Removal Technology

There are currently four types of lasers in use for laser hair removal: ruby, alexandrite, diode, and Nd:YAG. These lasers deliver an intense beam of light which is made up of a single wavelength or color. The light energy is absorbed by the pigment or melanin in the hair follicle. The follicle is thereby heated and injured, resulting in less hair growth. In addition, there are a variety of intense pulsed light systems (non-laser) in use for laser hair removal. These systems deliver light which is made up of multiple wavelengths or colors.

Ruby Lasers (eg Epilaser, E2000)
The ruby laser was one of the earliest lasers to be approved for hair removal. Ruby lasers work well for treatment of dark hair in fair-skinned patients. However, they are very limited in their ability to safely treat patients with darker or tanned skin. Use of a ruby laser on a darker-skinned person carries an unacceptably high risk of side effects such as crusting, blistering, pigmentary change (lightening or darkening of the skin), or scarring. For this reason, other lasers have largely supplanted the ruby laser for laser hair removal.

Alexandrite Lasers (eg GentleLase, Apogee)
Alexandrite lasers have been very popular in the past for laser hair removal. Like the ruby, alexandrite lasers work best for dark hair in fair-skinned patients. The alexandrite laser is somewhat safer than the ruby for treatment of darker skinned patients. However, it still carries the risks of skin burning and pigmentary change in darker patients. Use of the alexandrite laser is best reserved for patients with light skin.

Diode Lasers (eg Lightsheer, SLP 1000, MeDioStar, Apex 800)
Worldwide, the Lightsheer diode laser has achieved the most widespread use for laser hair removal. This laser works well in fair-skinned patients, but has the added versatility to safely treat many darker or tanned patients. By extending the pulse duration to 100 milliseconds or beyond, diode lasers can effectively treat tanned or dark-skinned patients. Diode lasers appear to fall into the "sweet spot" in laser hair removal, allowing safe and effective treatment of the widest range of hair type and patient.

Nd:YAG Lasers (Lyra, Coolglide)
The original Nd:YAG laser (Softlight) which was approved for laser hair removal only provided temporary results. More recently, long-pulsed Nd:YAG lasers have been developed which can achieve long-lasting hair removal. These lasers can be used to safely treat patients of all skin colors. The Nd:YAG laser is the treatment of choice for patients with dark, coarse hair and dark skin, such as African-Americans. Compared to other lasers, the Nd:YAG laser may have reduced efficacy for treatment of finer, lighter hair, as there is less melanin absorption at the Nd:YAG wavelength.

Intense pulsed light (e.g. Epilight, Quantum, Estelux, Aurora)
Intense pulsed light systems represent an alternative to lasers for treatment of excessive hair. These systems are effective in experienced hands, but can have a higher risk of side effects when used improperly. Unlike lasers, these systems deliver multi-wavelength light to the skin, which can have both advantages and disadvantages. The treatment handpiece tends to be large and rectangular in shape, which makes treatment of smaller areas such as the upper lip more difficult. The Aurora device represents new (unproven) technology which utilizes pulsed light in combination with radiofrequency energy. Although the company maintains that this device can treat white or light hair, credible evidence to support this is lacking.

Cooling
A crucial point to understand is that all of the above devices need to be used together with some type of cooling to protect the skin. Some devices (e.g. Lightsheer) have a built-in cooling tip which very reliably protects the skin when good contact is maintained. Other devices (e.g. GentleLase) use a brief spurt of cryogen just before the laser pulse to cool the skin. Another cooling option is a strong flow of ice-cold air which is blown onto the skin. One type of cooling which may not be as reliable uses a built-in cold handpiece to pre-cool the skin (e.g. Altus CoolGlide). The problem is that if the operator does not move the handpiece in the correct direction, the laser may fire on skin which has not been cooled at all.

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